1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
Pro-Touring Car For Sale!




The concept of this build was to create a car that could handle most any racetrack, autocross course, curvy mountain road, and also be fun driving around town or taking trips in. It took about 6 years to build and has been on the road for 7 years since being roadworthy (about 2,700 miles total).

The project started with a bone-stock 1971 Olds Cutlass S I bought from North Georgia. I bought it from the nephew of the original owner, and it was in great shape (I looked at about 3 dozen cars over 18 months that were anything BUT decent). We stripped the car down to bare metal and separated the body from the chassis. We were very lucky to have found only 3 or so small coin-sized spots of rust which were removed and replaced with new metal. The chassis was sent to ProCryo in Cumming to be media blasted and then powder coated black.

The original drivetrain, suspension and interior were removed and sold off. We replaced the engine with a 6.0L LS (Vortec) from a 2003 Chevy Express Van and a T-56 6-speed manual transmission from a 2002 Camaro, and an 8.8 rear axle from a 1995 Ford Explorer (yes, you read that right, a GM car with a Ford rear axle!).

The 6.0L LS engine was built by a friend at the Napa Machine Shop on Peachtree Industrial Blvd, whom we've had dozens of racing engines built through. We used a Comp Cams camshaft and upgraded springs, pushrods, etc. The cam is an XFI RPM High Lift Camshafts p/n 54-428-11, which is a Hydraulic roller tappet style. Here are the cam specs:
We ditched the factory truck intake in favor of an LS1 intake, to which we added a 85mm ported throttle body and throttle body cap billet plate. This is a drive by cable set-up. The oil pan was changed to a Holley low profile conversion oil pan, and we used BMR motor mounts, crossmember and their LS conversion ceramic coated headers. That was rounded out with Borla's stainless 3" dual exhaust kit all the way back and features Stainless Steel rectangle tips that exit through cut-outs in the bumper (similar to 442 style exits). Rather than going under the frame after passing the rear axle, we cut and sleeved the chassis so that the exhaust would stay tucked up and hidden, for a much cleaner look.

The transmission is a 2002 Chevrolet Camaro T-56 6-speed that was rebuilt and utilizes a Diamond Stage-3 clutch kit. This clutch is amazing! You can daily drive it or really hit it hard and its smooth as silk all the time. It is the perfect combo.

The rear axle is an 8.8 model from a 1995 Ford Explorer. The width is within 1/4" of the factory 10-bolt, and comes stock with rear discs, 4.10 gears, 3" tubes and a track-lok posi. We also added a custom billet rear differential cover with reinforcing caps that strengthen the already-strong set-up. These axles in stock form can handle upwards of 800hp! Aside from the different lug pattern for the wheels, this is a PERFECT swap / upgrade. Plus, almost no one has picked up on the differences unless I tell them. Makes for great conversation and really piques people's interest when you tell them.

For the suspension, the stock stuff had to go. I wanted this car to handle curves as well or better than a newer Corvette, while still providing a super low ride height and to be as comfortable as could be. We went with RideTech's coil over suspension and StrongArm front sway bar. This is a tried and tested suspension system that works flawlessly. It bolts on, has easily replaceable parts if needed, and can handle anything I can throw at it. I didn't want to replace one or two parts to just get a lower stance or replace a few items to make it handle only on the track. I wanted it all: looks / stance, street comfort, and track performance. I couldn't be happier with this set-up and WILL use it again on future builds. We used F-body spindles as they drop it super low, while keeping the ball-joint geometry aligned properly (we used Moog ball joints). Although the car is super low, it still easily clears speed bumps! Nothing worse than seeing a high-end build that can't go over speed bumps or scrapes when turning into a driveway. You can also raise or lower the coilovers if you prefer a different ride height.

A MAIN requirement I had for this car is that everything needed to be easily replaceable in most any town. That way if I was driving somewhere 3 or 5 states away and something broke, I could hit up any local auto parts store or pull-a-part yard and get replacements. I wanted to be able to buy any replacement quickly and easily, and not have a 3-10 day wait period while something was made and shipped. That gave me the ultimate in flexibility and ensured I could drive the car the way I wanted, without sacrificing anything (least of which, my wallet). If I break a rear axle shaft, I can get a replacement at every single bone yard for $25 to $50. Try doing that with a custom Moser rear axle….

Body modifications:

Electrical modifications:

Brakes / suspension modifications:

Engine related modifications:

Interior modifications:
There are probably things I've forgotten, as this was a frame off, every nut-and-bolt type of build. If I remember additional items, I'll provide an update.

We had the car dyno tuned, and it puts down 380hp at the tires. That means the engine, factoring in a 20% drivetrain loss) is putting out around 475hp. If you want more power, a simple cam change and tune will easily get you over the 500hp mark (or add turbos, supercharger, etc).

Before, during and after pictures are available.

This is a very unique car, from the color to the stance to the wheels and tires, to the performance. In a sea of Chevelles, Camaros and Mustangs, you don't have to worry about disappearing. You WILL be noticed. For performance, I wanted it to be very streetable, allow me to use all the power on the autocross course, and not overpower it or have it be a smokeshow that couldn't put power down to the ground. This car is every bit of what I wanted. It gets lots of attention and is an absolute blast to drive in any weather, any condition, on any road.

There are a few things I haven't gotten to that I planned on doing.
  1. Bumpers. The front and rear bumpers are the originals and could be rechromed.
  2. Hood heat extractors. I planned on designing an extractor that would be machined out of a billet block of aluminum, or possible something fabricated and welded, but never settled on what I wanted, so the openings are just that, open. I reinstalled the factory fake louvers for now.
  3. Trim around the dash. The factory had a cheap plastic trim that surrounded the dash and used plastic push-pins to hold it in place. I wanted to make something out of stainless or aluminum and install it as an accent piece. Should be something that could be done with little fab.
  4. Schroth Rallye 4 ASM Harness System. I have a set of Schroth Rallye 4-pt racing harnesses that connect to the factory rear seatbelts and are removable. This is in case you want to race on a track that requires harnesses. I didn't like the idea of a permanent harness and wanted something I could remove easily. These are new in the box.
  5. Side mirrors. I haven't installed any side mirrors, as I keep going back and forth on several styles but never was able to select one that I felt was perfect or fit the body lines to my liking. The rear view mirror is large enough that it hasn't been an issue, but someone may want that.
  6. Grille. The factory grille looks good but could be refinished to be better. The renderings I had done by Jason Rushforth show a different style, but I stopped short of exploring the design and possibilities for the grille (one of those "I'll eventually get to it" kind of things).


This car is meant to be driven and can easily be driven hard. It has been very reliable and is everything I always dreamed of for my ultimate car. It performs fantastically well, and with the hydroboost and C6 brakes, it stops faster than anything I've ever seen.

I love the car from front to back, top to bottom. But, with kids that will be in college in a few years, I'm letting my dream car move on to the next person who can love it and enjoy it as much as I have (and hopefully use it more than I have been able to). I have pictures from when I first bought it, throughout the process, up until now. It should go without saying that there are no joy rides, no trades, no tire kickers. I only accept cash, however you want to make that happen. I have full title to the car, and final exchange of funds and title will be done at a bank local to me.

The car is being sold as-is where-is, with no warranties either expressed or implied. Buyer is responsible for inspection, asking any questions and understanding what they are buying prior to purchase. There are no refunds, exchanges, do-over's etc. I have described the car in as much detail as possible, and once you take ownership, it's yours. I will keep stated value insurance on the car until the moment possession is taken by the new owner, at which point all insurance is the responsibility of the new owner. That way, it's protected and covered while in my care. All of this is to say, do your homework before you buy. As for if I will sell the car internationally, if you are willing to pay for the vehicle and shipping it, I'll sell to anyone that will pay for it. The only thing I ask of the new buyer is to occasionally send me a picture or video of you using and enjoying the car. I would hope that the next owner will drive it and use it like it was intended, and not making it part of a collection that sits (but then again, once I sell it you can do whatever you want with it).

Price is $85k.

To recreate this build would be over $125k.

You can call / text at 404.931.7099.

Email: sales@rndfabrication.com